There are a number of different types of compost bins on the market that you can use to help manage and contain your compost. But, a special bin is not a requirement that is needed to accomplish successful composting, but more of a convenience. It is easy enough to build your own bin for your compost pile and simply cover it over with a sheet of polythene or chunk of cardboard.

But, if you want your compost heap to look a bit neater and want it to be somewhat easier to manage, then buying compost bins might be the right step for you. You can look at local garden centers, shop online at sites that carry organic gardening supplies or even get in touch with your local recycling department. Some communities actually have composting bins that you can purchase very inexpensively as a way of encouraging this form of recycling.

Making a compost is as simple as adding your organic items that are compostable on a regular basis. Any waste product that was at one time a living thing will compost, or decompose, but some items are not recommended to be thrown into your compost pile. Meats, dairy foods and cooked foods will end up attracting pests and vermin so these should not be used in your home composting efforts.

Dead and decaying leaves, lawn clippings, manure, and kitchen waste such as rinds, peelings, coffee grounds and even eggshells can be added to the compost. Older, thicker and tougher plant materials are slower to decompose but they benefit the compost by providing more substance, or body, to the finished compost product. These heavier materials usually comprise most of a compost pile.

Wood items take a long time to decompose. Whenever possible it is best to shred, chip or chop wood materials to help accelerate the rotting process. However, as long as they are mixed in with other materials that decompose faster they will still provide some benefit to the process overall.

In general it is best to have fairly equal amounts of what is called brown material and green material in your compost. Brown materials are the manures, dead leaves, small twigs and cardboard and newspapers. Green materials include hedge and grass clippings, coffee grounds, fruit rinds and uncooked vegetables.

You can start your compost heap with as little as a foot of compostable materials. When you are ready to get your composting project underway, simply mow the yard, weed the garden, empty out your organic kitchen waste and throw in a little newspaper or straw so that you have about a foot of material in the bottom of your compost bin. Turn the pile occasionally and let nature takes its course and soon you will have some rich compost to add to your vegetable garden.

There are primarily two types of microorganisms that direct the process of decomposition or composting. Microorganisms that require oxygen are called as aerobic microbes. These microbes have a prominent role in decomposing classic outdoor compost pile. Hence, it is important to aerate compost pile present outdoors quite frequently by either making holes or turning the pile outside down. Microorganisms that do not require oxygen for growth are called anaerobic microbes. These types of microbes are useful for composting during winters. The organic waste along with the soil can be filled into a large plastic trash bin which is tightly covered for a brief period of time so as to initiate anaerobic decomposition. The microbes work efficiently when the soil is slightly alkaline, moist and has a temperature of 60°F.

Once the compost is ready, it looks like a coarse, dark-brown colored, peat-like material which is called as humus. This humus is used as organic manure while sowing seeds in an indoor garden. Compost provides nutrients, retains water, improves soil texture and reduces the use of chemical fertilizers. Plants growing on organic compost are better resistant to diseases and attacks from pests. However, one should never use diseased materials or materials treated with herbicides for the purpose of composting.

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The best way to begin is to store up enough materials to make a one cubic yard compost pile. You will need equal amounts of green (nitrogen rich) and brown (carbon-rich) material. If your pile is any smaller, the pile will not build up enough inner heat to reach these high temperatures. If it is much larger, the same problem will arise. You can also build the pile as you collect the composting ingredients, but composting will be slower.

Choose a level place for your composting bin. Start with a thin layer of rough stems such as corn stalks or rough flower or plant stalks from your gardens, so air can reach the bottom of the pile. Place a good base of carbon-rich leaves, straw or chipped garden waste on this, and add some good soil or active humus. The soil or humus is your beginning source of heat-generating bacteria and organisms that will kick-start the decomposition.

Chipping or chopping up leaves and stems is a good idea, as smaller pieces will decompose more quickly. This is a good rule of thumb for all materials you plan to add to any compost bin.

Once your bin and the base layers of stems, carbon-rich ingredients and soil are in place, add green ingredients. This can be kitchen scraps, again with larger pieces cut or chopped up. Now alternate brown and green ingredients in thin layers. They should be added in roughly equal amounts. By separating the green (often moist kitchen scraps) from the drier leaves and straw, any smell or odor is reduced. As you add them, you can lightly mix them together.

You need certain conditions for the composting to occur. The heat-generating bacteria need some moisture and warmth, and some air. Keep your pile damp, but not wet, and aerate it regularly by turning it. Turning the pile will also move the cooler materials on the edges to the center, where they can heat up and decompose. If you have a compost thermometer, you can use it monitor the inner temperature.

It doesn’t take long for the pile to reach temperatures hot enough to kill most weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. As the pile composts, you will notice the temperature will decrease. When the pile no longer gets hot in the center, let it cure for a few days, and your new and clean compost is ready to use!

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Following are materials to add or not to add to create optimal composting for gardening:

Materials to Add

Add aged manure, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, blood meal or a compost starter. These elements are rich in nitrogen and will help jumpstart the microbes responsible for breaking down the organic matter into compost.

Add a mixture of green materials (grass clippings, food scraps and manure) with brown materials (dead leaves, hay, wood chips and shredded newspaper) to add necessary nitrogen and carbon. Both elements create rich compost for quick decomposition. A ratio that combines equal portions of both works best.

Add coffee grounds and let the worms help with the composting.

Add algae and seaweed. Rinse off any salts before using.

Add straw for an excellent source of carbon but make sure it doesn’t contain weed seeds.

Materials Not to Add

Do not add fats, pet droppings, or animal products. These elements attract pests to the pile and can spread disease.

Do not add ashes to the compost bin (or do so sparingly) since they are alkaline and affect the pH of the pile.

Do not add plants treated with pesticides or herbicides (like weed and lawn clippings).

The compost is finished when it looks, feels and smells like rich, dark soil. You should shot be able to recognize any of the elements placed in it. Finished compost is generally less than half the volume of the materials placed in the bin, but it’s much denser.

Compost piles should remain damp but not saturated (think of a wrung out sponge). Aerate the compost pile regularly (every two weeks) to create air spaces which will reduce the smell.

Apply the finished compost to your garden about 2 to 4 weeks before you plant to give the compost time to integrate and stabilize within the soil.

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Some people insist that every bit of garden debris from peas vines to corn stalks to tree branches have to be composted. It needs to be realized that all of these materials will compost but that not all organic material is created equal. Different items will need different times to decompose and some really need to cut down to size if they are expected to go through the typical garden composting system.

For example, in the usual three bin composting setup used by many gardeners, garden debris like pea and bean vines, carrot tops or lettuce that is threatening to go to seed will disappear in two or three weeks while corn and broccoli stalks will likely be around for months. In this case the fork that is used to turn the pile can be augmented by simple tools like shears or an axe. These are used to cut the stalks into shorter lengths of six inches or less. The process also tends to bruise the stalks and the added surface area allows bacteria to work faster thus letting the material compost quicker along with the rest of the pile. Incidentally, the axe also requires a chopping surface like a length of log on end.

Some people like to get the chopping done another way. The pile is simple built of all available matter and let rest for three or four days as the bacteria and fungi start their work. Then a well sharpened shovel is driven into the pile cutting through stalks and vines as the pile is turned. A mattock does an easier job of this but it is still fairly hard work. Second and third turnings go easier as the pieces rot.

This leads people to buy garden shredders, especially in the case of branches. These do a great job of reducing piles of woody material to as little as a tenth of the size of the original pile of branches. It is up to the gardener to decide if the expense justifies the results. Many shredders do not do a very good job on wet material such as stormed on leaves and buyers should be aware of this. Lawn mowers tend to do a better job on leaves. Just lay the leaves out, run the mower over them and rake.

Are the extra tools and machinery necessary for you garden composting system? Not really. After all is said and done, the pile will rot. But they may be warranted in making your system produce good compost faster from your available materials.

Darrell Feltmate is an avid gardener who has been composting and gardening for over 25 years with gardens up to 1/2 acre and compost piles for each. His composting site may be found at Compost Central. You can become a master composter in no time at all.

Composting bins are not necessary but are certainly nice in setting up a home garden compost system. For details on the very simple but effective homemade compost bins of the author see homemade compost bin

Composting is ever more popular and has numerous environmental benefits. So don’t be tempted when faced with the shiny pre-bagged variety at the garden centre. Take a look through our information and tips to learn why you should do it and all you need for fool-proof compost.

What is Compost?

Compost is the natural result of the biodegradation of organic matter by micro-organisms (bacteria, yeasts and fungi), worms and invertebrates. In soil science, this rich, dark and sweet-smelling product is called humus. And you can use it on your lawn, in your plant beds, in houseplants or as a potting and seed starting mix.

Why make Compost?

There are many benefits to making compost. It is not surprising that gardeners name it black goldÂÂ.

It’s free – reuse waste and save money
It saves waste disposal costs – with increasing restrictions and rising council taxes
It helps the environment. Your waste need not be transported to landfill sites – in fact it’s 100% environmentally friendly – it doesn’t pollute in any way
It makes great, healthy soil – recycling nutrients and improving structure
It’s a natural fertilizer – saving money on chemical fertilizers
It helps to retain soil moisture
It also improves drainage with even water retention
It increases worm activity which is invaluable for gardens
It breaks up clay soil

What should go into your Composter?

You can divide the two types of waste that should go into your compost into ‘greens’ and ‘browns’. ‘Greens’ are quick to rot and provide essential nitrogen and moisture. ‘Browns’ are slower to rot, provide carbon and fibre, and allow the formation of air pockets. For the perfect balance, aim for approximately 2 parts ‘Green’ to 1 part ‘Brown’ in weight, with only small amounts of items listed under ‘What not to add’.

What to add to your compost bin

Greens

Food scraps such as vegetable peelings, fruit scraps and tea and coffee grounds
Garden refuse such as grass clippings and weeds
Herbivore droppings such as those of guinea pigs and rabbits
Rotted manure
Urine – preferably diluted with water

Browns

Cardboard and paper such as egg boxes and newspapers
Fallen leaves
Sawdust
Straw
Twigs, branches and bark

Other ingredients

Hair is slow to decompose but a good source of nitrogen
Egg shells – these will not decompose in the bin but will add valuable minerals
Natural fibres such as 100% wool or cotton

What not to add

Weeds with seeds or pernicious weeds
Diseased plants
Thick branches
Disposable nappies
Meat and fish
Cooked food
Grease
Dairy products
Bones
Coal and coke ash
Dog droppings and cat litter

How to make compost

The key to perfect compost is a good balance of ‘Greens’ and ‘Browns’. Plan your kitchen storage facilities to make sure your valuable leftovers are not wasted: for example using our ergonomic kitchen caddy.

After adding your products, it really is as simple as leaving it to itself: the breakdown is a natural process so just keep adding until the bin is full and settled. To make this as quick as possible make sure all paper and cardboard is shredded or broken up. With this method your compost will take 6 to 18 months. If you want to speed the process up, then turn the material each week and make sure your bin is placed in the sun. Once your compost is dark brown, crumbly, thick and moist, and also producing a sweet, earthy aroma, it is ready to use.

The Compost Bin

With their green color blending into garden aesthetics and their robust structure with a lid to protect the contents from the elements and help insulate – compost bins are designed to help the composting process along its way. And you will not need to use external agents such as bio-liquids and powders to operate a modern and good quality compost bin. They come in various sizes so don’t just buy the largest; choose one that fits the size of your garden. A wide opening also makes adding and removing compost easy.

See the compost bins in our range.

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What you can compost : – all raw plant and fruit peelings – teabags, tea leaves and coffee grounds – egg shells – dead flowers from the house – and from the garden, soft prunings – spent bedding plants, dead leaves, grass mowings – spent compost from hanging baskets or boxes – some dryer materials like shredded pape – rabbit and guinea pig bedding.

So keep an eye fixed on it, particularly if you happen to use the wooden enclosure, and mix it with a fork now and then. What NOT to compost : – all beef products and bones, bread, cooked food – these will attract vermin – dog or moggy waste – woody material – which takes too long to compost – weeds – these can ‘infect ‘ your compost with their seeds – anything that’s non-biodegradable. And as you will not always feel just like taking a visit to the compost pile when it’s wet or cold or each time you peel veg why not keep a lidded container by the back door which you can fill up and then make the trip to the composting bin each 1 or 2 days? Over time – three months to one year, dependent on conditions – all this matter will have broken down into beautiful dark brown crumbling compost, which you can fork into your beds and borders. It makes a superb soil conditioner and can be employed as surface mulch, helping preserve moisture and deter weeds. You may also convert fallen leaves into smashing compost. Rake up any leaves from your lawn – you will have to try this many times over the autumn – and collect them from the borders. Put them all into a black waste sack, splatter with water, put a few holes round the sack with a fork, tie the top, and leave it in a corner for around a year. What you finish up with is sometimes known as leaf-mould.

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Two benefits Composters manufactured are they usually do a better job of keeping stuffed their organic waste and in most cases manufactured Composters accelerate the processing of compost containing the heat generated during the composting process thus speed up the decomposition of organic materials. So, you end up with compost to your garden more quickly than composting in a stack or heap and often with less effort.

What types of Composters are available? Basically, Composters come in three different types: composting bins, compost tumblers and composting bins worms. Each composter has its advantages and disadvantages.

The most basic composter is a compost bin. The position of composting average acts resistant plastic and is usually black or dark green in color, which is great for heat retention (remember the heat is good to help accelerate the process of composting).

Compost bins are simple, easy to assemble and are usually cheaper than compost tumblers.Most positions is not more than three feet tall and is very discreet and can be placed in a discreet location in your yard. Again, more manufactured compost bins has a lid to keep out varmints and some type of port to allow access to the final composite. A disadvantage is that it’s sometimes hard to transform or mix the composting materials. Spinning or mix the materials compost helps ensure deeper composting.Positions of composting hold an average of 80-160 liters of compostable material and can produce composite end in several months.

The next type of mixer is a composter composting. A compost tumbler is typically somewhat more expensive than a compost bin, but he has tangible benefits. A compost tumbler, as the name implies, allows the compost Chamber be activated on your axis, making it easy to blend of organic materials. Compost tumblers can produce composite end faster than most composite positions because of the ability to transform and mix the composting materials.

The only work needed when compost with a glass of composting is give mixer composed a spin or two each week and new organic material is added. Most similar compost tumbler volume store for composting bins and can produce composite end in several weeks.

The latter is a worm bin composter composting. As you might suspect, worms are involved in the process of composting with worm composting bins. The nice thing about a worm bin is that it can be used indoors.Now I know that sounds a bit freaky have worms in your home, but a worm bin is done safely home worms and compostable materials so you don’t have to worry about a smell or a mess.

The typical worm used in worm bins is a type of worm, brandling Red worm most people use for fishing.The worm bin typically has multiple trays. lower tray is filled with moist bedding materials such as shredded Newspaper.
Worms are added and another tray is placed at the top of the tray containing the worms.This tray you put their organic materials. worms find their way into the upper tray and begin to feast on your junk.The worms leave behind castings or worm poop, which is part of the compound richer in nutrients available. After several weeks, these pieces can be collected and used in your garden.

The only concern with a worm bin is that you need to avoid extremes if you keep the trash away. it does not need to be in direct sunlight and as the temperature at night approaching 40 degrees, you will need to bring the worm bin in the garage or basement.

How much I need to spend on a composter? The typical price range for a composter is under $ 100.00 for about $ 400.00 depending on the model that you purchase.Most positions are composting in the price range of $ 100-$ 150, and the majority are in compost tumblers price range of $ 200-$ 400.

What is the best composter for me?To answer this question, you need to figure out what kind of composting Method you may prefer. There are basically two types of methods of composting-I call them the “patient” composting Method and the results-oriented “composting method.”

If you’re the kind of person who is not really in a hurry to finish composting and compost you is more out of a desire to do their part to help the environment, you may want to consider some kind of compost bin. composting Positions fall under the category of “patient composting Method” because it usually takes several months before you are finished compost.

If, on the other hand, you are someone who wants to start with things, you may want to consider a compost tumbler.Compost tumblers fall under the category “results oriented” composting Method because usually can finish composed in several weeks. for example, someone who is an avid gardener and want a continuous supply of compost to your garden is the one who should seriously consider a compost tumbler.

The composter recommend?I know you have a lot of information to think, but we have some suggestions to help steer you in the right direction.

Cost conscious consumer may want to consider the soil Saver Compost BinConsumidores aware of the value may want to consider the glass of Compost Tumbleweed or glass of Compost quality conscious EnvirocycleConsumidor may want to consider the Jora JK270 Composter, Jora JK125 Composter

Start composting! hope you found this information useful for deciding which composter will meet your needs of composting as a last resort, we have compiled our top nine evaluations in our Composters buying guide Composter.

There is a composter out there for everyone. will find yours today! good luck and happy composting. remember, “don’t throw it away, composting it!”

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Each year in the spring people venture outdoors to begin planting their gardens and flower beds. The allure of warm, gentle days seems to call out the winter hermits in an act of reseeding the world with beauty and divine scents. One thing that does not make sense is the amount of money spent on commercial fertilizers and compost. Composting yourself is free and makes some of the best fertilizer in the world. Sure, it does take some time but if you start work on it early you can have rich, dark soil by the time planting season comes around.

Composting is environmentally friendly and once you know what can be composted and what cannot, you will be on your way to being eco-friendly. In this article the basics of composting will be covered such as what it actually is technically and how you can begin your own compost heap in your own backyard.

What is composting?
Composting is the process of taking organic material and breaking it down through a variety of chemical and animal processes to achieve fertilizer and plant building material that is both cheap and highly effective. It is very environmentally friendly and is a great way to avoid paying those high costs of bags of fertilizer. You can utilize those leftover food wastes, animal wastes, grass clippings, branches and other organic materials to create a loamy material that will help your plants grow to their maximum potential like no other commercial grade fertilizer possibly can. The best part is that it is free!

What can I use to help the material break down?
If you want your compost heap and material to break down faster you are going to need to keep it aerated, moist and broken into smaller pieces. You can also help break down the material by adding worms and other small insects into the pile that will help eat the organic material. Their waste products are filled with great nutrients for the soil and before long you will have a compost heap that is ready to hit the garden to begin the cycle all over again. It is a circle of life that is a great example of Mother Nature at her finest and shows what recycling can do for the environment.

What can I do with my compost once it is done?
When your compost heap is broken down back into fertilizer you can use it in a variety of ways. You can use it in your garden. You can use it on your lawn and you can use it in your flower beds. Anywhere you use fertilizer you can use your compost material. It is that incredibly versatile and let us not forgets to mention that it is free. That is the best reason of all to compost your organic material.

Can I put my pet’s waste in for composting?
You can put your pet’s droppings into your compost pile but be warned: it will attract animals and is going to smell pretty bad as it begins to break down. If you live in the suburbs this may not be the best idea. Rural areas where you can move the compost heap to a far enough location may be okay but just be prepared for an atrocious smell. Sometimes it’s better to just stick with organic materials such as yard trimmings.