All you need to do to make your own compost that can be used in your garden or allotment is to get a compost bin. Compost bins vary greatly in size and price but all you need to get started is the largest bin that you can afford. You could try asking your local authorities as they often have subsidized bins available.

Once you have your compost bin put things like old fruit and vegetables that won’t be used in it, along with fruit and vegetable peelings and eggshells from the kitchen. Do not put cooked meats or raw meat in them.

From the garden you can add materials like grass clippings, weeds that are not in seed along with plants that are finished with. You can also add things like nettles and other vegetation. Nettles are an excellent addition as they act as an accelerator to get the composting process moving. Another excellent accelerator is comfrey.

To add even greater balance to the mix ensure that you include materials like thin twigs, straw, dead leaves or even cardboard. It might be an idea to shred these items if you have a tool like a garden shredder.

The way to ensure that excellent compost is made is to provide a wide range of material that will easily breakdown, concentration should be given to sufficient amounts of water and air, as well as the materials advised above which provide carbon and nitrogen content.

As the contents of the compost bin begin to decompose it is essential to turn the contents regularly which will get oxygen into the mixture.

It is perfectly possible to have a usable compost mix within a few short months, often between two to five depending on the time of year.

If you need lots of compost throughout the year why not get friends and relatives to save you their kitchen and garden waste, turning it into a useful product that is an excellent tonic for your soil, whilst also helping the environment at the same time. Happy Composting!

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To compost successfully and efficiently you need the right equipment and an understanding of the principles of the decomposition process. Although you can compost organic waste perfectly well in a loose heap, it looks untidy and tends to decompose unevenly unless carefully managed. In most gardens a compost bin is a far better option. Ideally, a bin should contain at lest one cubic meter of waste to allow it to heat up adequately and compost material quickly. The bin can be a simple structure made from old pallets nailed together to form a box or a neater home made version fashioned from second hand, tantalized fencing timber.

Do not use untreated timber because it will rot along with the contents. Alternatively, you can buy a ready made compost bin, but make sure you choose one that will hold sufficiently organic waste. The compost should be easily accessible when it is ready to use. Almost all organic waste material from the garden and household can be recycled, but to decompose quickly and form a crumbly, sweet smelling, fibrous material, the right ingredients must be combined. Ideally, add dry materials, such as pruning, old newspapers and straw, with equal quantities of green, wet organic waste, such as grass clippings.

Before adding to the compost heap, make sure that dry and woody material is chopped finely with scatters prunes or a garden shredder. Do not add meat, fish, fat or other cooked foods to the compost bin because they will attract vermin. Also throw away perennial weed roots and annuals weeds that are setting seed because these may survive the composting process. Mix up the material before adding it to the compost bin or add the material in layers no more than six inches deep.

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The crops you choose to grow in your autumn garden, like every other garden, will depend on what you want to eat and how much space you have available for your fall garden. Even those plants that thrive in the heat (tomatoes, sweet potatoes, okra, peppers, etc.) will continue to yield until the first frost hits. In southern states, this can be as late as October or November. And if what we hear about climate change is true, you may have longer growing seasons nationwide in the future!

Some plants won’t grow well after the end of summer (snap beans, squash, cucumbers, etc.). But if you plant them around mid-summer, you’ll be able to harvest them through first frost. The more hardy vegetables will continue to grow and produce until the temperature falls to a chilly 20 degrees. Even roots and tubers whose top leafy parts are killed by a hard freeze can be saved if you’ve used a lot of mulch to protect underground temperatures.

Pick the vegetable plants with shorter growing seasons for your fall gardening. Seed packages should indicate the length of a plant’s growing season or the number of days to maturity. For these short-season growers, you can plant several times throughout the summer and harvest well into the fall. You may not be able to find seeds late in the summer, so buy the seeds early in the spring and summer. Just store them in a cool, dry spot (your refrigerator is great) until you’re ready to plant them.

In planning for fall gardening, you need to know when to expect the first hard frost in your area. The Farmers’ Almanac is a good information source for this, as it gives specific dates and has a great record for accuracy. Knowing the approximate date of the firs frost and the length of the plant’s required growing season, you can count backward to determine when your last good chance is for planting. That way, even the last plants you start will have plenty of time to mature and produce in your fall garden.

As with all gardens, preparing the soil for planting is critically important. You must first clear the soil of any remaining spring or summer crops and, of course, weeds. You’ve already done much of the soil preparation for the early plants, so you’ll just need to add a little more compost or fertilizer to amend the soil. If you used a lot of organic matter for your summer garden, fall gardening may not even require additional compost. But it’s a good idea to use plenty of mulch to cover the ground and maintain the warmth of the ground as long as possible. Wait from 12 to 24 hours after prepping the soil to plant your fall garden.

If you’ve been hesitant to start a fall garden because you think the early frosts will destroy your work, don’t worry. With a little planning and careful thought, you can select hardy plants with shorter growing seasons that will give you tasty, healthy vegetables into the early winter. And what is nicer than having that last plate of tomatoes or that last bowl of steaming squash as you snuggle near your fireplace on those early cold winter nights!

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Yes, you can skip this the “seed” step entirely and purchase seedlings from your local nursery. However, this does not give you the option to start your own seeds from vegetables that you have harvested the previous year. A garden is self sustaining, and if you want to take advantage of this, you will need to start from seed each year- seeds that you have harvested from the previous year’s crop. Plus, when you start with your own seeds rather than seedlings you have purchased from a garden store, you are much less likely to introduce disease to your garden. You don’t really know where nursery seedlings have been or how they have been treated.

When you see the term “seed starting,” this usually refers to planting seeds indoors, in a controlled environment, and allowing them to germinate and sprout before transplanting them outdoors. This is a beneficial process for many types of home grown fruits, flowers, and vegetables. Tomatoes, for example, are best started indoors before being transplanted outside. If you see information on a seed packet indicating that the plant may be “direct sown”, this indicates that if you would like, you can plant the seeds directly outside in your garden rather than starting them inside.

In order to start seeds in your home, you will need:

- Small containers, such as Dixie cups or egg cartons

- Humus (compost that has reached its dry, crumbly finished state)

- High quality sterile seed starting soil mix

- Heirloom seeds, either those that you have purchased or those that you have saved from last year

- Plastic wrap

- A large tray or baking sheet

To begin, poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each cup, then fill each one with a mixture of 50% humus and 50% soil. Make sure that the soil is adequately damp. A good, loamy soil should clump together in your hand when you squeeze it, then fall apart when you poke it. If water drips out between your fingers when you squeeze it, the soil is too wet.

Gently press one seed into each container so it is covered with about ? inch of soil. Once all of your cups or egg cartons are full, place them on a tray, and lightly cover the tops with plastic wrap to help them retain moisture.

Depending on what type of seeds you are growing, they may not need any light to germinate. Tomatoes, for example, do not need light. Tomatoes are best kept in a warm, dark place. Many people prefer to place their seed trays on top of the refrigerator, as this is nice and warm, away from direct sunlight, and out of harm’s way. You can refer to your seed packets to see whether or not your seeds need light in order to germinate. Once seeds have sprouted, however, all plants need light in order to develop into strong, healthy seedlings. So if you germinate your seeds in the dark, move them to a sunny spot like a windowsill or in front of a sliding glass door once they have sprouted.

It is important to keep your seeds nice and damp, but not over-watered, during the germination process. Too much moisture may cause your seeds to rot. Every day, you can check your seeds’ moisture levels by lifting a corner of the plastic wrap and pressing a finger to the soil. If the soil is dry, lightly mist it with water from a spray bottle. Or, pour some water onto the tray, which will allow the plants to absorb water from the bottom up through the cups’ drainage holes.

When your seedlings have germinated and been moved to their sunny spot, it is very important to keep them well watered. Again, keep the soil moist but not swampy. Small pots dry out quickly, so it is likely that you will have to water them every day once they are exposed to light. It is also a good idea to fertilize them once a week with an organic liquid fertilizer that has been diluted to half strength. Plants are very delicate at this stage, so do not over fertilize them.

Once the last chance of frost has passed in your zone, you can transplant your seedlings outdoors. One week before you intend to transplant them to your garden, it is time to begin the process of hardening them off. This process means that you will be slowly and gradually exposing your seedlings to the outdoors in order to allow them to acclimate. One week before transplanting, set your trays of seedlings outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for an hour. The next day, increase the exposure time to 2 hours. Each day, gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside and the amount of direct sunlight they receive. After a week, you can leave your seedlings outside overnight.

After your seedlings’ overnight campout, they will be ready to transplant into your garden. Again, make sure that you have waited until the last chance of frost has passed, and you have selected a garden spot according to the plants’ sunlight needs. This will help to ensure that you receive that particular satisfaction that comes with starting your own garden from seed.

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If you live where the soil might not be conducive to whatever it is you would like to grow, (the most common choice is a vegetable garden) or you want to grow a garden on top of clay or a stony area, no dig gardening can be your answer. Anything grows in compost.

Just like regular gardening, you must choose a site first. The spot should be level and have no less than five hours of sun daily. Don’t worry if the soil is not good or the weeds are invasive, as this is of little consequence to a raised bed garden. Starting a garden on top of lawn or weeds will simply create more compost material in time, as long as you do not expose the vegetation to sunlight. This is part of the joy of no dig gardening.

You will most likely want to outline your garden space by creating a border around it. For this, you can use old bricks, logs, stones, etc. The raised borders hold the garden inside so it doesn’t stray and nothing or no one can encroach. Next, lay down a layer of lucerne hay (alfalfa) to a height of about 10cm. Put a layer of organic fertilizer on top of that at a height of about 20 mm. Add a level of thick loose straw on top of that to 20cm, another layer of fertilizer, and finish your no dig garden with 10 cm of compost.

Your no dig garden will be richer if you plant seedlings instead of seeds. Seeds have a tendency to disappear in the mix. Seedlings are easier to keep track of and you can plant seedlings well in the rich mixture. Try peas, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, or sweet corn. Wait before you start planting root crops until you have a more mature garden. Besides, you’ll have to dig to remove those.

There are no size or shape restrictions in raised bed gardening. Make your garden as large or as little as you want. Try to avoid walking on it or in it, as this will compact the layers and impact your harvest. Keep building your garden up because it will tend to settle down. Practice crop rotation when you re-plant, continue to add compost and be sure to mulch around replacement plants.

Keep in mind that no digging means your garden is easier to make, but you will have to work at maintaining it if you want a nice yield for your efforts. Always organic materials in your garden. Never use chemical or man-made fertilizers or pesticides. No dig gardening mirrors nature’s way of growing, so staying organic is of the utmost importance to the philosophy of no dig gardening.

Martin Aranovitch is an online publisher with a strong interest in green living. To learn more about ways to go green, save money and help the planet, go here: Green Living Tips.

There are primarily two types of microorganisms that direct the process of decomposition or composting. Microorganisms that require oxygen are called as aerobic microbes. These microbes have a prominent role in decomposing classic outdoor compost pile. Hence, it is important to aerate compost pile present outdoors quite frequently by either making holes or turning the pile outside down. Microorganisms that do not require oxygen for growth are called anaerobic microbes. These types of microbes are useful for composting during winters. The organic waste along with the soil can be filled into a large plastic trash bin which is tightly covered for a brief period of time so as to initiate anaerobic decomposition. The microbes work efficiently when the soil is slightly alkaline, moist and has a temperature of 60°F.

Once the compost is ready, it looks like a coarse, dark-brown colored, peat-like material which is called as humus. This humus is used as organic manure while sowing seeds in an indoor garden. Compost provides nutrients, retains water, improves soil texture and reduces the use of chemical fertilizers. Plants growing on organic compost are better resistant to diseases and attacks from pests. However, one should never use diseased materials or materials treated with herbicides for the purpose of composting.

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The best way to begin is to store up enough materials to make a one cubic yard compost pile. You will need equal amounts of green (nitrogen rich) and brown (carbon-rich) material. If your pile is any smaller, the pile will not build up enough inner heat to reach these high temperatures. If it is much larger, the same problem will arise. You can also build the pile as you collect the composting ingredients, but composting will be slower.

Choose a level place for your composting bin. Start with a thin layer of rough stems such as corn stalks or rough flower or plant stalks from your gardens, so air can reach the bottom of the pile. Place a good base of carbon-rich leaves, straw or chipped garden waste on this, and add some good soil or active humus. The soil or humus is your beginning source of heat-generating bacteria and organisms that will kick-start the decomposition.

Chipping or chopping up leaves and stems is a good idea, as smaller pieces will decompose more quickly. This is a good rule of thumb for all materials you plan to add to any compost bin.

Once your bin and the base layers of stems, carbon-rich ingredients and soil are in place, add green ingredients. This can be kitchen scraps, again with larger pieces cut or chopped up. Now alternate brown and green ingredients in thin layers. They should be added in roughly equal amounts. By separating the green (often moist kitchen scraps) from the drier leaves and straw, any smell or odor is reduced. As you add them, you can lightly mix them together.

You need certain conditions for the composting to occur. The heat-generating bacteria need some moisture and warmth, and some air. Keep your pile damp, but not wet, and aerate it regularly by turning it. Turning the pile will also move the cooler materials on the edges to the center, where they can heat up and decompose. If you have a compost thermometer, you can use it monitor the inner temperature.

It doesn’t take long for the pile to reach temperatures hot enough to kill most weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. As the pile composts, you will notice the temperature will decrease. When the pile no longer gets hot in the center, let it cure for a few days, and your new and clean compost is ready to use!

Gardening expert Nicki Goff offers a free e-mail starter course all about her main passion… herb gardening. Visit her website for access, and even more great tips in her new comprehensive e-book on creating, maintaining and enjoying your own home herb garden, along with bonus e-books on specific aspects of herb lore.

Look for more gardening tips, links and articles on her general garden blog.

Basics of Windowsill Gardening

The numerous herbs that grow successfully in a windowsill environment can be purchased from local nurseries or garden stores. You can either use a cutting or the seeds of the plants for propagation. Some of the most popular and easily grown herbs are basil, chives, mint, oregano, rosemary, cilantro, thyme, sage, marjoram and parsley. Generally, chives and mint are easier to grow and good choices for those novice gardeners who are just putting their hands into gardening for first time. Chives can be used in salads or vegetables. Mint has an extraordinary strong aroma and can be used in soups, salads, and beverages. Basil is one of the main ingredients in pesto a green Italian oil-and-herb sauce. The leaves of coriander or cilantro are used in chutneys, sauces, curries and soups. Rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage, basil, and marjoram are all wonderful culinary herbs used for seasoning and garnishing meat, sauce and vegetarian recipes.

Soil-less Windowsill Gardening

You can use a soil-less potting mix for propagating the herbs for your windowsill garden. Place the herbs in a clay, wood or plastic container using a soil-less potting mix. Soil-less mediums contain natural minerals and are good for drainage. They are also free from any soil-borne disease. Leave at least two inches of space at the top of the container for watering. Herbs do not need too much of water hence water only to make the potting-mix moist. Lasagna Gardens for Windowsill are the latest craze in organic herb gardening and very easy to implement if you are fed up of digging and tilling the earth. It is a very popular form of gardening and you can use it for a herb garden too. The idea behind Lasagna gardening is layering. The main theme of the Lasagna gardening is creation of layers with organic compost and absolutely no weeds to worry about. Select a sunny location. The sunniest spot in your window-sill is the best place for Lasagna gardening. Start the layer with a very wet newspaper, top it with peat moss and cover it with a thick layer of organic compost which can be home grown or brought from garden store. Repeat the process with alternate layers of newspaper, peat moss, and organic compost until your lasagna garden is as thick as you want it to be. Put water in the Lasagna garden until it has the consistency of a wet sponge. After that, all you require to do is plant your herbs and mulch. Continue mulching your garden.

What is Mulch?

Mulch is a protective covering usually of organic matter such as leaves, manure, straw or peat, placed around plants to fix the roots firmly, prevent the evaporation of moisture and inhibit growth of weeds. Common types of mulch used in Lasagna gardening are grass clippings, chopped up corncobs, sawdust, wood ash, seaweed or kelp. Vegetables like asparagus, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, garlic, lettuce and potatoes grow very well in such gardens. With a little creativity, you can try anything with Lasagna gardening; even oregano, basil and other herbs.

Gardening is not about the expanse and the range of varieties of plants cultivated but is about the love for greenery, beauty, attention to details and appreciation of the herbs that can grow in the limited space of your balcony, patio or perch. Imagine if the entire stretch of the overgrown urban space would be covered with window-sill gardens, the world would indeed be a much better place to dwell in. We can still transform the world, one windowsill at a time …

Sudhir Naik co-wrote the above article with Shraddha N. and has been caring for herbs for over 20 years. He is a contributing writer to EvergreenHerbGardens.com site – providing information and tips on windowsill herb gardening. He enjoys sharing his expertise of herb gardening and invites you to get his FREE Evergreen Herb Gardening Mini-Course where he guarantees you’ll be successful growing fresh herbs in 7 days, at the information packed website http://www.EvergreenHerbGardens.com

Rose seeds should be started indoors, in a soil of half potting soil and half vermiculite. The seeds will need careful watering and plenty of sunlight while you await the seedlings. Once seedlings emerge it is advisable to transplant them into individual pots and keep them growing in that way for at least a year before planting outside. Some experts would suggest keeping plants in controlled conditions and pots for up to 5 years before planting in the ground.

Once your seedlings are ready to be planted, the next step is to prepare the ground. Good soil preparation is essential to a healthy garden. To start, dig a hole about one foot in depth, adding compost or peat moss before planting. An additional layer of bone meal may also be added as you replace the first foot of soil and begin your planting.

Once your soil is ready, follow the planting directions for each individual variety. For most a hole about six inches larger and deeper than the plant you are putting in the ground is required. You should gently remove the plant from its container or wrapping, so as not to damage the root system during transplanting. Pack the soil back down around the plant and water thoroughly. At this time, it is also recommended to add a layer of mulch to control moisture and protect the root system as your plant grows.

While your newly planted roses will not need pruning for another growing season, any existing roses should be pruned. Early spring, just as the buds are beginning to swell, is the best time for pruning.

To keep your rose garden healthy and thriving, take the time to keep it clear of dangerous pests, fungus and rust . These, along with severe weather conditions can all be a danger. You can eliminate pests with simple pesticides just as needed. You can prevent and protect your plants from fungus and rust by watering always at the roots of the plant, never the leaves and by careful pruning and dead heading. Mulch will be your ally in keeping weather related damage at bay, both in summer and winter.

With some patience and a little work, your roses started from seed will eventually provide you with abundant flowering plants and a real sense of accomplishment.

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Composting is ever more popular and has numerous environmental benefits. So don’t be tempted when faced with the shiny pre-bagged variety at the garden centre. Take a look through our information and tips to learn why you should do it and all you need for fool-proof compost.

What is Compost?

Compost is the natural result of the biodegradation of organic matter by micro-organisms (bacteria, yeasts and fungi), worms and invertebrates. In soil science, this rich, dark and sweet-smelling product is called humus. And you can use it on your lawn, in your plant beds, in houseplants or as a potting and seed starting mix.

Why make Compost?

There are many benefits to making compost. It is not surprising that gardeners name it black goldÂÂ.

It’s free – reuse waste and save money
It saves waste disposal costs – with increasing restrictions and rising council taxes
It helps the environment. Your waste need not be transported to landfill sites – in fact it’s 100% environmentally friendly – it doesn’t pollute in any way
It makes great, healthy soil – recycling nutrients and improving structure
It’s a natural fertilizer – saving money on chemical fertilizers
It helps to retain soil moisture
It also improves drainage with even water retention
It increases worm activity which is invaluable for gardens
It breaks up clay soil

What should go into your Composter?

You can divide the two types of waste that should go into your compost into ‘greens’ and ‘browns’. ‘Greens’ are quick to rot and provide essential nitrogen and moisture. ‘Browns’ are slower to rot, provide carbon and fibre, and allow the formation of air pockets. For the perfect balance, aim for approximately 2 parts ‘Green’ to 1 part ‘Brown’ in weight, with only small amounts of items listed under ‘What not to add’.

What to add to your compost bin

Greens

Food scraps such as vegetable peelings, fruit scraps and tea and coffee grounds
Garden refuse such as grass clippings and weeds
Herbivore droppings such as those of guinea pigs and rabbits
Rotted manure
Urine – preferably diluted with water

Browns

Cardboard and paper such as egg boxes and newspapers
Fallen leaves
Sawdust
Straw
Twigs, branches and bark

Other ingredients

Hair is slow to decompose but a good source of nitrogen
Egg shells – these will not decompose in the bin but will add valuable minerals
Natural fibres such as 100% wool or cotton

What not to add

Weeds with seeds or pernicious weeds
Diseased plants
Thick branches
Disposable nappies
Meat and fish
Cooked food
Grease
Dairy products
Bones
Coal and coke ash
Dog droppings and cat litter

How to make compost

The key to perfect compost is a good balance of ‘Greens’ and ‘Browns’. Plan your kitchen storage facilities to make sure your valuable leftovers are not wasted: for example using our ergonomic kitchen caddy.

After adding your products, it really is as simple as leaving it to itself: the breakdown is a natural process so just keep adding until the bin is full and settled. To make this as quick as possible make sure all paper and cardboard is shredded or broken up. With this method your compost will take 6 to 18 months. If you want to speed the process up, then turn the material each week and make sure your bin is placed in the sun. Once your compost is dark brown, crumbly, thick and moist, and also producing a sweet, earthy aroma, it is ready to use.

The Compost Bin

With their green color blending into garden aesthetics and their robust structure with a lid to protect the contents from the elements and help insulate – compost bins are designed to help the composting process along its way. And you will not need to use external agents such as bio-liquids and powders to operate a modern and good quality compost bin. They come in various sizes so don’t just buy the largest; choose one that fits the size of your garden. A wide opening also makes adding and removing compost easy.

See the compost bins in our range.

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