If you’ve been thinking that container gardening is expensive or difficult to operate, you fallen to the same misconception that many people recently have as well. We’ll walk you through it, step by step, the process of creating your own container garden. For a nice example, we’ll be growing basil.

Step 1: Buy container gardening supplies, which entail (if you know where to shop, it’ll cost you around twenty dollars or even less to buy all the materials, especially if you possess a sunny spot for plants. If you don’t, then you need to utilize artificial light. This will add to about fifteen to twenty dollars to your varying purchases):

- 3 plastic pots w/h holes for draining at the bottom. Preferably, these will have trays below that catch dirt and water damage around five to six inches in length and five to six inches deep

- 1 bag of basil seeds

- A fairly small container of compost (organic)

- 1 very small bag of peat moss

- 1 small gardening spade (also known as a trowel)

- A small, versatile watering can and/or spray bottle

- A sunny windowsill or artificial source of sunlight

Step 2: Prep the soil by mixing a bit of compost with moss (5 parts compost and one part peat moss. For every trowel of moss, essentially place five trowels of compost). Measure three pots until they are around.5 of an inch from the top w/h the mixture.

Step 3: Place the basil seeds in the dirt, making holes 2.54 cm (1 inch) down in the centre of the individual pots using your fingers. Around three seeds should be placed in each hole, and buried with soil. Hydrate in small quantities with water, and place them under sunlight. The seed should sprout soon and once they are around two inches in height, promptly remove any other sprouts. This will permit you to have only one plant per pot.

Step 4: Watering regularly and maintaining them like any other plant will keep them alive. Look through soil for moisture daily. If the soil feels clay-like, water. If you want the basil to continuously grow, clip off the tip of the stock every few weeks and any branches.

There’s nothing more to it! It’s that easy, and that fast to start your own container garden. We only planted basil in this example. But you can branch out on your own: try tomatoes, peppers, thyme, roses, or other, as any will work with a few small changes.

If you want to become the envy of your friends and neighbors and if you also want to save time, effort, and money and still make the garden of your dreams, go online to: Container Gardening [http://www.toporganicgardening.com/category/container-gardening/] and Organic Gardening Tips [http://www.toporganicgardening.com]

The crops you choose to grow in your autumn garden, like every other garden, will depend on what you want to eat and how much space you have available for your fall garden. Even those plants that thrive in the heat (tomatoes, sweet potatoes, okra, peppers, etc.) will continue to yield until the first frost hits. In southern states, this can be as late as October or November. And if what we hear about climate change is true, you may have longer growing seasons nationwide in the future!

Some plants won’t grow well after the end of summer (snap beans, squash, cucumbers, etc.). But if you plant them around mid-summer, you’ll be able to harvest them through first frost. The more hardy vegetables will continue to grow and produce until the temperature falls to a chilly 20 degrees. Even roots and tubers whose top leafy parts are killed by a hard freeze can be saved if you’ve used a lot of mulch to protect underground temperatures.

Pick the vegetable plants with shorter growing seasons for your fall gardening. Seed packages should indicate the length of a plant’s growing season or the number of days to maturity. For these short-season growers, you can plant several times throughout the summer and harvest well into the fall. You may not be able to find seeds late in the summer, so buy the seeds early in the spring and summer. Just store them in a cool, dry spot (your refrigerator is great) until you’re ready to plant them.

In planning for fall gardening, you need to know when to expect the first hard frost in your area. The Farmers’ Almanac is a good information source for this, as it gives specific dates and has a great record for accuracy. Knowing the approximate date of the firs frost and the length of the plant’s required growing season, you can count backward to determine when your last good chance is for planting. That way, even the last plants you start will have plenty of time to mature and produce in your fall garden.

As with all gardens, preparing the soil for planting is critically important. You must first clear the soil of any remaining spring or summer crops and, of course, weeds. You’ve already done much of the soil preparation for the early plants, so you’ll just need to add a little more compost or fertilizer to amend the soil. If you used a lot of organic matter for your summer garden, fall gardening may not even require additional compost. But it’s a good idea to use plenty of mulch to cover the ground and maintain the warmth of the ground as long as possible. Wait from 12 to 24 hours after prepping the soil to plant your fall garden.

If you’ve been hesitant to start a fall garden because you think the early frosts will destroy your work, don’t worry. With a little planning and careful thought, you can select hardy plants with shorter growing seasons that will give you tasty, healthy vegetables into the early winter. And what is nicer than having that last plate of tomatoes or that last bowl of steaming squash as you snuggle near your fireplace on those early cold winter nights!

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Tip #1 – a plan is always needed. Not something that is thought of and reconsidered over time intermittently, but a specified plan of action that leads to a specified end result. When you decide to grow your garden, and you choose to do it in an organic matter, you will need to take a few things into consideration such as location, the environment that the plants will grow it, the time that it will take in order for you to properly take care of your garden, how much effort will be involved and are there any resources that you may or may not be able to acquire in order to reach your final goals.

Once you have a clear written outline of what it is you need to do and what you need to acquire to reach your garden goals, it is time to start the plan into action. Action is everything once the goals are defined. If you set your goals but neglect factors such as good seed, compost, or even a source of good water for your plants, you will fail in your attempt because any compromise will lead to an overall failure.

Tip #2 – prepare your soil. Soil preparation is the foundation of the growth of any and all plants that you have. From the soil, the plants will be able to get their nutrients. Soil that is hard or dense will be almost impossible to aerate and therefore the plants will not get enough oxygen through the root system in order to thrive and flourish. Likewise, if there is no way for the water to evenly percolate to the plants roots in your garden, some plants will make it while others will die without consistent moisture, and some will be oversaturated and get root rot.

Another organic gardening tip is that you must also consider the consistency of the soil in regard to the amount of compost and nutrients that will be accessible to the seeds that will grow into the plants in the garden that you desire. By adding natural compost or other fertilizers to enhance the nutrients within the soil such as nitrogen or potassium, you will need to prepare this ahead of time, specifically as you are preparing the soil and getting ready to plant your seeds.

Tip #3 – Add compost. With reference to fertilizer, if you are doing this in an organic matter, some of the best fertilizer that you can get can either come from your compost pile or from a worm bin that you have created through your vermicomposting efforts. This needs to be prepared several weeks in advance so that it is ready to use when you are ready to plant. Compost that has not had time to properly finish will be detrimental to your soil and therefore proper preparation is always mandatory before getting ready to add these nutrients to the soil that will bear the fruit of your labor.

Tip #4 – Consistently water your garden. The consideration of water is also paramount in your success. You must have a way for your organic garden to get enough water on a regular basis so that it can grow unimpeded by the periods of droughts that are self induced by someone to did not plan ahead of time and create an optimal situation for the gardens irrigation needs. This includes having enough access to water, easy access through an irrigation system or hose system, and potentially a sprinkler system on a timer which can ensure that the garden is receiving water on a regular basis.

Tip #5 – Beware of insects. One final organic gardening tip that you should consider is that when your plants begin to grow, insects will appear. Weeds will also appear as well as potential diseases that can kill off your crop. This will take some wisdom on your part knowing the types of plants you are growing and finding natural alternatives to pesticides that may inhibit or deter the natural growth processes of your plants. If you are an organic gardener, you will not want to use these anyway and therefore finding beneficial insects that attack bad insects or natural scents or plants that will deter weed growth or disease is paramount in ensuring the healthy growth of your garden.

When considering all of these things together in a big picture, you realize that gardening cannot possibly be the result of an accident. There must be proper preparation and access to all of the tools necessary in order to make a garden successful and to make your efforts worthwhile. Take some time and use these five organic gardening tips to your benefit and make your garden one of the best you have ever had.

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If you live where the soil might not be conducive to whatever it is you would like to grow, (the most common choice is a vegetable garden) or you want to grow a garden on top of clay or a stony area, no dig gardening can be your answer. Anything grows in compost.

Just like regular gardening, you must choose a site first. The spot should be level and have no less than five hours of sun daily. Don’t worry if the soil is not good or the weeds are invasive, as this is of little consequence to a raised bed garden. Starting a garden on top of lawn or weeds will simply create more compost material in time, as long as you do not expose the vegetation to sunlight. This is part of the joy of no dig gardening.

You will most likely want to outline your garden space by creating a border around it. For this, you can use old bricks, logs, stones, etc. The raised borders hold the garden inside so it doesn’t stray and nothing or no one can encroach. Next, lay down a layer of lucerne hay (alfalfa) to a height of about 10cm. Put a layer of organic fertilizer on top of that at a height of about 20 mm. Add a level of thick loose straw on top of that to 20cm, another layer of fertilizer, and finish your no dig garden with 10 cm of compost.

Your no dig garden will be richer if you plant seedlings instead of seeds. Seeds have a tendency to disappear in the mix. Seedlings are easier to keep track of and you can plant seedlings well in the rich mixture. Try peas, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, or sweet corn. Wait before you start planting root crops until you have a more mature garden. Besides, you’ll have to dig to remove those.

There are no size or shape restrictions in raised bed gardening. Make your garden as large or as little as you want. Try to avoid walking on it or in it, as this will compact the layers and impact your harvest. Keep building your garden up because it will tend to settle down. Practice crop rotation when you re-plant, continue to add compost and be sure to mulch around replacement plants.

Keep in mind that no digging means your garden is easier to make, but you will have to work at maintaining it if you want a nice yield for your efforts. Always organic materials in your garden. Never use chemical or man-made fertilizers or pesticides. No dig gardening mirrors nature’s way of growing, so staying organic is of the utmost importance to the philosophy of no dig gardening.

Martin Aranovitch is an online publisher with a strong interest in green living. To learn more about ways to go green, save money and help the planet, go here: Green Living Tips.

Following are materials to add or not to add to create optimal composting for gardening:

Materials to Add

Add aged manure, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, blood meal or a compost starter. These elements are rich in nitrogen and will help jumpstart the microbes responsible for breaking down the organic matter into compost.

Add a mixture of green materials (grass clippings, food scraps and manure) with brown materials (dead leaves, hay, wood chips and shredded newspaper) to add necessary nitrogen and carbon. Both elements create rich compost for quick decomposition. A ratio that combines equal portions of both works best.

Add coffee grounds and let the worms help with the composting.

Add algae and seaweed. Rinse off any salts before using.

Add straw for an excellent source of carbon but make sure it doesn’t contain weed seeds.

Materials Not to Add

Do not add fats, pet droppings, or animal products. These elements attract pests to the pile and can spread disease.

Do not add ashes to the compost bin (or do so sparingly) since they are alkaline and affect the pH of the pile.

Do not add plants treated with pesticides or herbicides (like weed and lawn clippings).

The compost is finished when it looks, feels and smells like rich, dark soil. You should shot be able to recognize any of the elements placed in it. Finished compost is generally less than half the volume of the materials placed in the bin, but it’s much denser.

Compost piles should remain damp but not saturated (think of a wrung out sponge). Aerate the compost pile regularly (every two weeks) to create air spaces which will reduce the smell.

Apply the finished compost to your garden about 2 to 4 weeks before you plant to give the compost time to integrate and stabilize within the soil.

Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com at http://www.myguidesusa.com, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life’s major events. Whether you’re planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you’ll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com.

Find lawn and garden tips and resources http://lawnandgarden.myguidesusa.com

Basics of Windowsill Gardening

The numerous herbs that grow successfully in a windowsill environment can be purchased from local nurseries or garden stores. You can either use a cutting or the seeds of the plants for propagation. Some of the most popular and easily grown herbs are basil, chives, mint, oregano, rosemary, cilantro, thyme, sage, marjoram and parsley. Generally, chives and mint are easier to grow and good choices for those novice gardeners who are just putting their hands into gardening for first time. Chives can be used in salads or vegetables. Mint has an extraordinary strong aroma and can be used in soups, salads, and beverages. Basil is one of the main ingredients in pesto a green Italian oil-and-herb sauce. The leaves of coriander or cilantro are used in chutneys, sauces, curries and soups. Rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage, basil, and marjoram are all wonderful culinary herbs used for seasoning and garnishing meat, sauce and vegetarian recipes.

Soil-less Windowsill Gardening

You can use a soil-less potting mix for propagating the herbs for your windowsill garden. Place the herbs in a clay, wood or plastic container using a soil-less potting mix. Soil-less mediums contain natural minerals and are good for drainage. They are also free from any soil-borne disease. Leave at least two inches of space at the top of the container for watering. Herbs do not need too much of water hence water only to make the potting-mix moist. Lasagna Gardens for Windowsill are the latest craze in organic herb gardening and very easy to implement if you are fed up of digging and tilling the earth. It is a very popular form of gardening and you can use it for a herb garden too. The idea behind Lasagna gardening is layering. The main theme of the Lasagna gardening is creation of layers with organic compost and absolutely no weeds to worry about. Select a sunny location. The sunniest spot in your window-sill is the best place for Lasagna gardening. Start the layer with a very wet newspaper, top it with peat moss and cover it with a thick layer of organic compost which can be home grown or brought from garden store. Repeat the process with alternate layers of newspaper, peat moss, and organic compost until your lasagna garden is as thick as you want it to be. Put water in the Lasagna garden until it has the consistency of a wet sponge. After that, all you require to do is plant your herbs and mulch. Continue mulching your garden.

What is Mulch?

Mulch is a protective covering usually of organic matter such as leaves, manure, straw or peat, placed around plants to fix the roots firmly, prevent the evaporation of moisture and inhibit growth of weeds. Common types of mulch used in Lasagna gardening are grass clippings, chopped up corncobs, sawdust, wood ash, seaweed or kelp. Vegetables like asparagus, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers, garlic, lettuce and potatoes grow very well in such gardens. With a little creativity, you can try anything with Lasagna gardening; even oregano, basil and other herbs.

Gardening is not about the expanse and the range of varieties of plants cultivated but is about the love for greenery, beauty, attention to details and appreciation of the herbs that can grow in the limited space of your balcony, patio or perch. Imagine if the entire stretch of the overgrown urban space would be covered with window-sill gardens, the world would indeed be a much better place to dwell in. We can still transform the world, one windowsill at a time …

Sudhir Naik co-wrote the above article with Shraddha N. and has been caring for herbs for over 20 years. He is a contributing writer to EvergreenHerbGardens.com site – providing information and tips on windowsill herb gardening. He enjoys sharing his expertise of herb gardening and invites you to get his FREE Evergreen Herb Gardening Mini-Course where he guarantees you’ll be successful growing fresh herbs in 7 days, at the information packed website http://www.EvergreenHerbGardens.com

Rose seeds should be started indoors, in a soil of half potting soil and half vermiculite. The seeds will need careful watering and plenty of sunlight while you await the seedlings. Once seedlings emerge it is advisable to transplant them into individual pots and keep them growing in that way for at least a year before planting outside. Some experts would suggest keeping plants in controlled conditions and pots for up to 5 years before planting in the ground.

Once your seedlings are ready to be planted, the next step is to prepare the ground. Good soil preparation is essential to a healthy garden. To start, dig a hole about one foot in depth, adding compost or peat moss before planting. An additional layer of bone meal may also be added as you replace the first foot of soil and begin your planting.

Once your soil is ready, follow the planting directions for each individual variety. For most a hole about six inches larger and deeper than the plant you are putting in the ground is required. You should gently remove the plant from its container or wrapping, so as not to damage the root system during transplanting. Pack the soil back down around the plant and water thoroughly. At this time, it is also recommended to add a layer of mulch to control moisture and protect the root system as your plant grows.

While your newly planted roses will not need pruning for another growing season, any existing roses should be pruned. Early spring, just as the buds are beginning to swell, is the best time for pruning.

To keep your rose garden healthy and thriving, take the time to keep it clear of dangerous pests, fungus and rust . These, along with severe weather conditions can all be a danger. You can eliminate pests with simple pesticides just as needed. You can prevent and protect your plants from fungus and rust by watering always at the roots of the plant, never the leaves and by careful pruning and dead heading. Mulch will be your ally in keeping weather related damage at bay, both in summer and winter.

With some patience and a little work, your roses started from seed will eventually provide you with abundant flowering plants and a real sense of accomplishment.

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But organic growing is a system, and isn’t just a matter of substituting naturally occurring materials for synthetics. Whether on the massive scale of the market farmer or the tiny scale of the yard gardener, the fundamental beliefs of an organic system are to work in the limits of nature to grow quality food. The system starts with a spotlight on healthy soil, which supports healthy plants.

When plants are robust, they’re naturally illness and pest resistant. **Why ORGANIC is better** instead of apply chemicals to heal illness and control pests as typical growers must do, organic growers are orientated toward prevention thru continual soil enhancements. It’s a real difference in perspective : the chemical quick-fix vs. Long term soil building. The advantages of taking the long term approach are instant.

Rather than having to keep indoors in a ‘re-entry interval,’ ( after using poisonous chemical insecticides, there’s a needed safety period when folk must avoid the area ), organic gardeners never experience exile from the location where they grow food. Also, there’s the difference in the effect on local water sources. Briefly gardeners who live where they grow food have a selected incentive and advantage in using an organic system : private H&S. But everybody benefits when organic strategies are used because they’re tolerable : good food is produced in a system that respects the natural environment.